November 21st--The title refers to King Ludwig II of Bavaria, who, after losing control of his kingdom to the newly formed German Empire, poured extravagant amounts of money into building lavish castles and supporting the arts before being pronounced clinically insane and dying in mysterious circumstances.
However, it also refers very much to the tourist circus around Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles, sitting 20 minutes walk apart at the foot of the Alps.
It also refers to some of my behavior in the middle of the day.
On with the blogging!
This is what I woke up to.
While there were buses to and from the castles, I had heard it was an hour walk over mostly flat ground so I decided to hoof it. I made it there in 40 minutes because I have the strength and endurance of 10 men. Well done, Dr. and Mrs. Hofeditz.
It was just after 10:00, so I decided to go around and take exterior shots of both castles and go for a tour later. First was Hohenshwangau, much older and much less famous. I kind of liked it more because I felt sorry for it.
With the view to Neuschwantsein above.
Next was to walk up the hill to Neuschwanstein (I can't believe I'm going to have to type these names so many more times in this entry...) which was billed as 40 minutes but took maybe 20. Weaklings. On the way up, I saw an Asian woman defecating on the side of the road.
I'll give that a second to set in.
OK, there was a big pile of logs between her and the road, but otherwise it was complete exposed, so that if you happened to be standing anywhere else but exactly in front of the pile you could see this woman voiding her bowels 15 feet off the road.
I did a double-take, literally not believing my eyes, then looked away as quickly as possible and continued up the road, my world reeling. There were bathrooms 2 minutes below her, and at the castle above! Bathrooms everywhere in this tourist paradise! Why would it ever be a good idea to do what she did? It was 11:00 AM!
I didn't want this particular experience added to those of my travels, but what was done was done. I continued up, moving along with the sea of Asians and Americans. I really heard very little German the entire day.
Among the Americans was a huge woman in a Green Bay Packers coat coralling a small child with a horrendous southern accent. Why was she a Green Bay fan? At this point, I officially hated everyone around me.
At the castle I took a few pictures...
...and then went back down to search for the path into the mountains behind Neuschwanstein to get a better vantage point. It was snowy, but not too bad, and it wasn't a cold day at all. I found the path and worked up to a fork in the trail, where almost all the trails were gated off.
No more people!
Hadn't cleared the snow, they said, danger, no trespassing. With maybe a two second hesitation I jumped over the gate and started walking.
I thought through the possible consequences. If I got caught, the worst they could do would be to arrest me, ban me from returning to Germany, and maybe execute me for trespassing around a national treasure. I figured it was worth the risk to get away from the pooping Asians and the Packers fans.
I soon came to the Marienbrücke, the bridge over a huge gorge that is a traditional Neuschwanstein viewing point. I took some pictures and (this one's for you, Papa) I spit off it into the waters below.
Then I saw the path leading beyond and started up it. It switched back and forth up the steep mountain, every once in a while buried in deepening snow. It was exhilirating to go up higher and higher on the mountain, the castle bells chiming out the time every 15 minutes. I saw the top of the mountain above and laughed to myself. "Nah..."
But I kept climbing and climbing, eventually leaving my pack by a tree (I wasn't worried about it because by now there were only my tracks and hoof prints.) so I could grab onto things better. Because the trail disappeared in snow, I climbed straight up the steep grassy slope for a lot of it. I checked the time and realized it was just before 1:00, so I decided to try for the top.
I won't go into the details about the stupid things I did to reach it because my family members will worry, but I got to the top. There was a rocky outcropping to the side that was slightly higher, but it was much more sheer and I couldn't make my way to it, seeing as I was stradling a rocky ridge about a foot and a half wide. I was at the top, though, and the view was incredible.
My hostel is somewhere in that town on the right.
That look on my face is just as I realize that I'm not sure how to get down...
Now it was time to climb, slide, and wade my way back down the bottom, soaking my pants and shoes in the process. I cut my hands a few times when I slipped, but nothing too bad.
Back across the bridge, down past the castle, down to the "village" of souvenir shops, cafes, and hotels. I had a ham and cheese sandwich with potato soup that tasted better than maybe anything I've ever had, and bought my tickets for the tour.
That's the mountain I was on top of.
The tour inside Neuschwanstein (didn't have time for Hohenschwangau--sorry, buddy!) was poorly run and far too short, but it was worth it to see the amazing opulence of the castle inside, with enormous paintings everywhere depicting scenes from Wagner's operas. If you have time, go on Wikipedia and check some of these things and people out; the stories are pretty colorful.
Sunset from Neuschwanstein
Finally it was time to head back down--after shunning the buses and the carriages to take people up to Neuschwanstein, I finally relented and took the bus back.
This is exactly what it looks like--Asian tourists taking pictures of the big Neuschwanstein posters. My mind almost exploded.
Back in Fussen, I had dinner with Joe Brown, a traveler I met from Viriginia doing much the same thing I am, but for three months instead of two, and then got on the train to Munich.
In Munich, it was a short walk to my hostel, a short dinner, and crashing into bed. Another one in the books.
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