Don't You Need Somebody to Love

November 18th--It was a struggle to rouse myself out of bed to catch the 12:46 train to Prague, but I did it.

I had breakfast at the cafe next to the hostel, where I saw Robin. I apologized for not making it to the Kazhakstani ritual/dance, but he said he didn't end up going either, so all's well that ends well.

The train ride was good, passed mostly inside the book I've been reading, Bill Bryson's The Life and Times of the Thunderbolt Kid. It's pretty good, but a little one note--it's the memoirs of his childhood, and as such becomes a little episodic and scattered. Funny, though, and has some thought-provoking observations about the 50's in America.

A little after crossing the border into the Czech Republic, the ticket woman came by to check tickets. I handed her my Eurail pass confidently, but she shook her head and asked if I had another ticket. Ar?

I had thought that my pass was valid for the Czech Republic as well, because the map provided with the pass had the country colored in. Countries like the UK and Bosnia are gray, showing that the pass doesn't work there. In any case, after a moment of panic and bitterness, the ticket ended up costing a paltry 10 Euro.

Arriving in Prague, I found my hostel quickly--Anna from Berlin had given me her map of Prague and a guide from her hostel, so I was well-prepared. After checking in, I set off to explore the city at night.


Prague is stunningly beautiful. At seeminly every turn the architecture inspires double takes. And what was even more apparent was the fact that almost everyone I saw was part of a couple. I soon felt a little out of place without someone to randomly pull aside and kiss in the street. I asked one of the uniformed Czech guards at one of the bridges, but he wasn't into it.

The Castle across the river with the St. Charles Bridge in front.

Slightly more in focus, with a shadowy menace to the side.

In Berlin, Anna said she thought Prague was more of a romantic city than Paris, and I think I agree. It's smaller and more mysterious and yet bursting with life. It's definitely extremely touristy, especially in the central Old Town where I was beseiged with currency change shops every 50 feet, separated by souvenir shops; however, it seems warmer than Paris to me. (In atmosphere, not temperature.)

And of course it's less expensive. The currency is the Czech Crown, with an exchange rate of about 27 Crowns to the Euro, and about 21 Crowns to the dollar. Most of the cafes and shops boast prices significantly less than what I've seen, although there are exceptions. I stopped into a souvenir shop to warm my hands up, and the thing I'm holding in my hand here was 150 Crowns. Almost 8 dollars for something they should give away as a parting gift.


As there weren't many people around, I walked all the way up to the awe-inspiring Prague Castle on a hill across the river from the Old Town and my hostel. I was able to walk around inside the outer buildings with almost no one else around, a pretty great experience. Eventually I made my way back to the hostel, ready for the city in daylight on Monday. Sorry--montag.

Up on top by the Castle.

I thought this was great--at least they're honest...